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Collection Zandra Rhodes Digital Study Collection
Designer Zandra Rhodes (British, born 1940)
Season Autumn/Winter 1981
Fashion Collection Name The Renaissance/Gold Collection
Style Number 81/131 (corset) and 81/47 (skirt) and 81/150 (pannier)
Style Number Page 171
Description Bodice consists of quilted satin corset as well as short swirled pleated 'cabbages' gold lurex sleeves; worn with a separately attached matching pleated peplum (described as 'paniers' in the Style Bible) over a full-length pleated gold lurex skirt.
Place Of Origin London (designed)
Objects evening dress, evening ensemble
Main Fabric gold lurex, acetate satin
Techniques pleated, quilted, screen printed
Textile Print Design Name Spinifix Landscape
Colourway bronze printed with black (corset)
Credit Line Mannequin courtesy of Rootstein
Exhibition History Zandra Rhodes Retrospective Collections 1969 - 1999, Paris Fashion Week 2012/13, 29 February 2012.
Keywords Elizabethan, royalty, queen, crinoline
Copyright © Zandra Rhodes 2012.
Terms Of Use Available for use in learning, teaching, and research, under the terms of a non-commercial Creative Commons Licence (CC BY-NC-SA).
Notes Traditionally panniers are worn under a skirt to support its shape; the Style Bible page also includes one white cotton pannier (SP1).

This ensemble was photographed by Sølve Sundsbø for the Royal Mail collection of British Fashion Designer stamps (May 2012).

A very similar corset style (81/130) was worn by Diana Ross in a photograph taken by Richard Avedon (Monsef et al 2005, p. 135); inspired by the idea of the Royal Wedding of Diana, Princess of Wales. (Monsef et al 2005, p. 134).

A variation of Zandra Rhodes' Modern Renaissance look is in the permanent collections of the Victoria and Albert Museum, London (T.124 to C-1983). This consists of a corset (81/131 but in black satin with Spinifix Landscape printed in charcoal), a separately attached peplum ('panier') (probably 81/150 or 81/152), an under pannier (SP1) and two skirts - pleated black silk net (81/136) printed with Mexican Fan worn over 81/186. According to exhibition text written for the Ballgowns exhibition* a similar version was worn by Zandra Rhodes to the opening of the Barbican, London, 1982.
* Ballgowns: British Glamour Since 1950, Victoria and Albert Museum, London, 19 May 2012 - 6 January 2013.
Location Zandra Rhodes Archives, London, UK