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Designing Britain 1945 - 1975 > Fabrics Forming Society > Research Base > Reading List
 
RESEARCH BASE

This Research Base includes a bibliography arranged under the following headings:
Books: General Reading
Books: Chapters
Journal Articles

The Archives and Museums listing includes websites that relate to knitting and sewing pattern collections (in archives and for sale), Dress and Costume research collections and Textile Design archives to visit, as well as Oral History interviews to listen to.
 
Archives and Museums

Vintage Pattern Lending Library
http://www.vpll.org/

http://www.thebluegardenia.com/

Brighton Gallery of Costume, Brighton Museum
http://www.virtualmuseum.info

COPA (Commercial Pattern Archive)
http://www.uri.edu/library/special_collections/COPA/index.html

The Design Collection at Bournemouth, The Arts Institute at Bournemouth
http://www.designcollection@arts-inst-bournemouth.ac.uk

The Design Council Archive, Design History Research Centre, University of Brighton
http://www.brighton.ac.uk/descoarchive/

http://www.geocities.com/invtex/

http://www.lilyabello.com/

London College of Fashion: College Archive
http://vads.ac.uk

http://www.longago.com/

Museum of Costume, Bath
http://www.museumofcostume.co.uk

http://www.oldpatterns.com/

Victoria and Albert Museum Archive of Art and Design:
http://www.nal.vam.ac.uk then access Archives listing for fashion, textile design, paper sewing and knitting patterns

Wessex Film and Sound Archive, Hampshire Record Office, Winchester
Oral History Interviews/Home Dressmaking: Barbara Burman - AV550
http://www.hants.gov.uk/record-office/index.html

Worthing Museum and Art Gallery, Dress and Costume, Patterns
http://www.worthing.gov.uk

http://www.yesterdazes.com/
 
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Books: General Reading

Judy Attfield, Wild Things, the Material Culture of Everyday Life, Berg, Oxford, 2000
Deirdre Clancy, Costume Since 1945; Couture, street style and anti-fashion, Herbert Press, London, 1996.
Jennifer Craik, The Face of Fashion, Routledge, London, 1993.
Jeffery Daniels, Utility Furniture and Fashion 1941-1951, The Geffrye Museum, London
Colin Gale and Jasbir Kaur, The Textile Book, Berg, Oxford, 2002.
Martin Hardingham, The Fabric Catalog, Pocket Books, New York, 1978.
Martin Harrison, Appearances: Fashion Photography Since 1945, Jonathan Cape, London.
Lesley Jackson, Robin and Lucienne Day; Pioneers of Contemporary Design, Mitchell Beazley, London, 2001.
S. Lewis, Casting Off the Plain Ordinary. A Study of British Contemporary Handknitting with Specific Reference to the Period 1978-1988, Unpublished MA Dissertation, Winchester School of Art, Library, 1995.
Sally McDonald and Julia Porter, Putting on the Style, The Geffrye Museum, London.
Colin McDowell, Forties Fashion and the New Look, Bloomsbury, London, 1997.
Daniel Miller, Material Culture and Mass Consumption, Blackwell, Oxford, 1987.
Alan Peat, David Whitehead Ltd., Artist Designed Textiles 1952-1969, Oldham Leisure Services, Oldham, 1993.
Helen Reynolds, Pressure and Persuasion: The Board of Trade Utility Clothing Scheme 1942-1945, Unpublished MA Dissertation, Winchester School of Art, Library, 1995.
Lou Taylor, The Study of Dress History, Manchester University Press, Manchester, 2002.
Jane Waller, A Stitch in time; knitting and crochet patterns of the 20s, 30s & 40s, Duckworth, London, 1972.
Nicola White, Reconstructing Italian Fashion, Berg, Oxford, 2000.
Maggie Wood, We wore what we'd got; Women's Clothes in World War II, Warwickshire Books, Devon, 1989.
 
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Books: Chapters

Christopher Breward, 'Early twentieth century: clothing the masses', Chapter 6, and
'Late twentieth century: catwalk and street style', Chapter 7, in The Culture of Fashion, Manchester University Press, Manchester, 1995, pp. 181-236.

Barbara Burman, 'Introduction', in, The Culture of Sewing; Gender, Consumption and Home Dressmaking, Berg, Oxford, 1999, pp.1-18.

Barbara Burman, 'What a Deal of Work there is in a Dress!: Englishness and Home Dressmaking in the Age of the Sewing Machine', Chapter 5, in, The Englishness of English Dress, Berg, Oxford, 2002, pp. 79-96.

Peter Dormer, 'Textile Design', Chapter 7, in, Design Since 1945, Thames and Hudson, London, 1993.

Joy Spanabel Emery, 'Dreams on Paper: A Story of the Commercial Pattern Industry', Chapter 14, in, The Culture of Sewing; Gender, Consumption and Home Dressmaking, Berg, Oxford, pp. 235-254.

Nancy Page Fernandez, 'Creating Consumers: Gender, Class and the Family Sewing Machine', Chapter 9, in, The Culture of Sewing; Gender, Consumption and Home Dressmaking, Berg, Oxford, 1999, pp. 157-168.

Fiona Hackney, 'Making Modern Woman, Stitch by Stitch: Dressmaking and Women's Magazines in Britain 1919-39', Chapter 4, in The Culture of Sewing; Gender, Consumption and Home Dressmaking, Berg, Oxford, 1999, pp. 73-95.

Paul Jobling, 'Introduction', in, Fashion Spreads; Word and Image in Fashion Photography since 1980, Berg, Oxford, pp. 1-13.

Pat Kirkham, 'Fashion, femininity and 'frivolous' consumption in World-War-Two Britain', Chapter 9, in, Utility Reassessed: the Role of Ethics in the Practice of Design, Manchester University Press, Manchester, 1999, pp. 143-156.

Clare Lomas, 'I Know Nothing About Fashion: There's No Point In Interviewing Me: The Use and Value of Oral History To the Fashion Historian', in, Fashion Cultures; Theories, Explorations and Analysis, Routledge, London and New York, 2000,
pp.363-370.

Valerie Mendes and Amy de la Haye, '1957-1967:Affluence and the Teenage Challenge', Chapter 6, in, 20th Century Fashion, Thames and Hudson, London, 1999,
pp. 158-219.

Angela Partington, 'Popular Fashion and Working-Class Affluence', in, Chic Thrills, Pandora, London, 1992, pp. 145-161.

Hilary Radner, 'On the Move: Fashion Photography and the Single Girl in the 1960s', Chapter 8, in, Fashion Cultures; Theories, Explorations and Analysis, Routledge, London & New York, 2000, pp. 128-142.

Helen Reynolds, 'Your Clothes are Materials of War: The British Government Promotion of Home Sewing during the Second World War', Chapter 19, in, The Culture of Sewing; Gender, Consumption and Home Dressmaking, Berg, Oxford, 1999, pp. 327-340.

Helen Reynolds, 'The Utility garment: its design and effect on the mass market, 1942-45', Chapter 8, in Utility Reassessed; the Role of Ethics in the Practice of Design, Manchester University Press, Manchester, 1999, pp. 125-142.

Mary Schoeser and Celia Rufey, 'Contrast and Variety (1920-1950)', Chapter 6, and 'Individuality (1950-1980)', Chapter 7, in, English and American Textiles from 1790 to the present, Thames and Hudson, USA, 1989, pp. 169-230.

Sherry Schofield-Tomschin, 'Home Sewing: Motivational Changes in the Twentieth Century', Chapter 5, in, The Culture of Sewing; Gender, Consumption and Home Dressmaking, Berg, Oxford, pp. 97-110.

Valerie Steele, 'From Hitler to Dior', Chapter 13, and 'Ups and Downs of Paris Fashion', Chapter 14, in, Paris Fashion, A Cultural Reader, Berg, Oxford,
pp. 261-290.

Lou Taylor, 'Paris Couture 1940-1944', in, Chic Thrills, Pandora, London, 1992, pp. 127-144.

Cynthia R. Weaver, 'Enid Marx: designing textiles for the Utility Furniture Design Advisory Panel', Chapter 11, in, Utility Reassessed: the Role of Ethics in the Practice of Design, Manchester University Press, Manchester, 1999, pp. 171-188.
 
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Journal Articles

Christopher Breward, 'Cultures, Identities, Histories: Fashioning a Cultural Approach to Dress', in Fashion Theory; the Journal of Dress, Body & Culture, Volume 2, Issue 4, December 1998, pp. 301-313.

Christopher Breward, 'Exhibition Review: Tanks and Trousseaus: Fashion in the Theater of War - Forties Fashion and the New Look. Imperial War Museum, London', in Fashion Theory; the Journal of Dress, Body & Culture, Volume 1, Issue 3, September 1997, pp. 313-320.

Christopher Breward, 'In the Eye of the Storm: Oxford Circus and the Fashioning of Modernity', in Fashion Theory; the Journal of Dress, Body & Culture, Volume 4, Issue 1, March 2000, pp. 3-26.

Cheryl Buckley, 'On the Margins: Theorising the History and Significance of Making and Designing Clothes at Home', in Journal of Design History, Volume 11, Number 2, 1008, pp. 157-172.

Joy Spanabel Emery, 'Development of the American Commercial Pattern Industry: The First Generation, 1850-1880', in Costume; the Journal of the Costume Society, Number 31, 1997, pp. 78-91.

Anthea Jarvis, 'British Cotton Couture: British Fashion and the Cotton Board, 1941 - 1969', in Costume; the Journal of the Costume Society, Number 31, 1997, pp. 92-99.

Peter McNeil, 'Put Your Best Face Forward: The Impact of the Second World War on British Dress', in Journal of Design History, Volume 6, Number 4, 1993, pp. 283-299.

Catherine Moriarty, 'A Backroom Service? The Photographic Library of the Council of Industrial design, 1945-1965', in Journal of Design History , Volume 13, Number 1, pp. 39-57.

Alexandra Palmer, 'New Directions: Fashion History Studies and Research in North America and England', in Fashion Theory; the Journal of Dress, Body & Culture, Volume 1, Issue 3, September 1997, pp. 297-312.

John Styles, 'Dress in History: Reflections on a Contested Terrain', in Fashion Theory; the Journal of Dress, Body & Culture, Volume 2, Issue 4, December 1998, pp. 381-389.

Gavin Waddell, 'The Incorporated Society of London Fashion Designers: Its Impact of Post-War British Fashion', in Costume; the Journal of the Costume society, Number 35, 2001, pp. 92-115.

Jonathan M. Woodham, 'Managing British Design Reform I: Fresh Perspectives on the Early Years of the Council of Industrial Design', in Journal of Design History, Volume 9, Number 1, 1996, pp. 55-65.
 
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